Take a road trip through New York’s most underrated Finger Lakes

While the bright lights and skyscrapers of the eponymous metropolis often come to mind when picturing New York, once you step beyond the five boroughs, the state is often overlooked for its diversity of magical scenery rivaling much bigger states out west. The Empire State, the only one in the country with both Atlantic and Great Lake coastline, also comes equipped with three majestic mountain ranges, countless enchanting verdant forests, and perhaps its most underrated treasure among its endless captivating bodies of water—the Finger Lakes.  

Etched into the terrain over eons of glacial activity, this corner of New York doesn’t just promise a wealth of adventures in nature among four distinctively beautiful seasons; lively cities and some fascinating historical twists are also yours to discover. 

Start and end: Greater Syracuse, New York  

From Cortland/Homer: I-81N (30.2 miles)  

Within Syracuse’s abundant Americana charms lie many surprises that are much more than they initially seem. Clinton Square’s shallow pool and festive fountain make for pleasant ambiance downtown, but subtle clues in the perimeter reveal the landmark’s origins as the worn remnants of the Erie Canal. An unassuming nearby plaque tells the tale of the Jerry Rescue of 1851, a famous event from the city’s abolitionist past as the “Great Central Depot” of the Underground Railroad. Outraged at the apprehension of a formerly enslaved local named William Henry (a.k.a. Jerry) due to the recent passage of the Fugitive Slave Act, a group of residents took up arms, forcibly stormed the jail adjacent to the plaza, liberated Jerry, and granted him safe passage to Canada where he lived the rest of his life in freedom.  

To the west in Liverpool, it might amaze spectators of the rainbows of flora, swooping birds, and picturesque twilights over Onondaga Lake to know that the idyllic waters were, until recently, considered among the most polluted in the country.

The big surprises don’t end there, either—this was also the birthplace of the archetype for American democracy. Onondaga Lake was the founding location of the Haudenosaunee Confederacy, a collective of tribes from Upstate New York whose union was characterized by checks and balances, separation of powers, and representative delegation. If that sounds familiar to the American system, that’s no accident. In 1987, Congress formally acknowledged the direct influence of the Haudenosaunee on the fledgling United States government.  

(America has a hidden 740-mile river adventure that’s finally being revealed)

Onondaga Lake is hardly the only attractive outdoor space around Syracuse. Get lost in the shady forests of Beaver Lake Nature Center in Baldwinsville or Green Lakes State Park in Fayetteville, making sure to end your trek at the latter with a delightful waterfront lunch at Yards Grille.

Syracuse is an excellent town for big appetites: Taste New York’s Italian heritage in the succulent slices baked at Apizza Regionale, savor a tantalizing plate of noodles at Pastabilities, or indulge your inner carnivore at the original location of famed New York staple Dinosaur Bar-B-Que. Finally, don’t forget to try the mouthwatering Peruvian fare and paninis of Hope Cafe, where the eatery’s moniker is more than just a name—the profits go toward fighting hunger and funding humanitarian causes worldwide.  

Deer Haven Park (Romulus)  

From Syracuse: I-81N to I-90W to Rte. 414S (58.3 miles)  

Crossing west into Seneca County—occupying a narrow isthmus between Cayuga and Seneca Lakes—uncovers a wonderland of gorgeous greenery and secluded lakefronts. There is also the occasional dose of the strange, beginning with a series of derelict weapon huts and clandestine government buildings, overgrown with vegetation and weathered walls after years of neglect, with grounds patrolled by ghostly, stark-white deer. While this scene sounds like something straight out of a post-apocalyptic film, this is just a typical day at Deer Haven Park in Romulus. 

The former Army depot ensnared a population of these otherworldly fauna when constructed during World War II, allowing their numbers to thrive in the subsequent decades of operation. While there is a choice for a self-guided auto tour, the weekly guided bus experience is recommended for the added historical context and glimpses into the remaining structures.

Step into the silent and haunting liminal spaces behind the weighty doors of the imposing concrete bunkers, see the mysterious fenced-off “Q” sector that once housed nuclear weapons, drive past dusty dirt patches used long ago for training exercises, and catch the sight of run-down outposts towering above the trees. Combined with the Seneca White Deer, this unique park makes for an unforgettable, can’t-miss stop. 

D&K Ranch (Interlaken)  

From Romulus: Rte. 96S (12.9 miles)  

With rooms including a swanky converted grain silo and cozy wooden cabins, the D&K Ranch in Interlaken promises a fantastic place to take in the splendor of the Finger Lakes National Forest. Navigate the serene “Faerie Trail” lined with surreal art displays made up of figurines and other bits of lovely casual weirdness, or engross yourself deeper in the leafy canopies by taking a horseback excursion arranged by the property. Don’t miss an atmospheric nightfall at the nearby Finger Lakes Cider House, where a colorful garden perfect for carefree strolling awaits with fiery sunsets best appreciated with a refreshing beverage in hand.  

Ithaca

From Interlaken: Rte. 89S (18.9 miles)  

Leave Seneca County to find the offbeat vibes of Ithaca at the southern tip of Cayuga Lake. Post up at the shore and admire the shimmering waters or immerse yourself in them properly by hopping into a kayak from Paddle-N-More.

Witness why “Ithaca Is Gorges,” to borrow a local catchphrase, by taking in the misty spectacle of roaring Ithaca Falls or following your curiosity onto one of the many access points leading to the Cascadilla Gorge Trail. Running straight through the center of town, marvel at the craggy facades lining the walk that often feature mesmerizing cascades flowing down their earthen grooves. 

The gorge eventually leads to Cornell University. The treats from Cornell Dairy are more than splendid to the taste buds; the ingredients come locally sourced from the Veterinary College. Listen to the music fluttering in the treetops of the Sapsucker Woods, and use the app developed by the School of Ornithology to decipher what avian species were heard based on their songs. An unbeatable stay lies ahead at the student-run Statler Hotel, where peerless service, cozy quarters, incredible meals, and friendly bartenders exemplify an outstanding slice of the Hospitality School. 

Downtown Ithaca is a delight to explore with its pedestrian-friendly streets and quirky local businesses. Catch a flick at the funky Cinemapolis, browse the glamorous new conference center, or check out the delights of the charming Dewitt Mall, whose corridors conceal a music shop, a co-op grocery, the laid-back Cafe Dewitt, and the savory dishes of legendary vegetarian establishment Moosewood. The restaurant, recently celebrating its 50th anniversary, has been enjoyed by countercultural luminaries like Allen Ginsberg and the Grateful Dead over the years.

Aspiring chefs should also snag a copy of Mollie Katzen’s foundational cookbook, recently ranked as one of the most influential of the past century. End the evening at the Northstar Public House or the Ithaca Beer Company, where tasty concoctions pair fantastically with the live music lasting well past sundown. In the morning, bite into a doughy pastry fresh from the ovens of Ithaca Bakery. 

Cortland / Homer, NY 

From Ithaca: Rte. 13N (23.4 miles)  

The Hope Lake Lodge, part of Cortland’s Greek Peak Mountain Resort, is a superb family-friendly attraction regardless of season. The colder months offer numerous ski routes, snow tubing, and an indoor water park, while summer unveils the thrilling zip line and riveting alpine coaster. Maintain your outdoor fix at the nearby Lime Hollow Nature Center, seeing how many surreal sculptures you can encounter within the inviting Art Meadow.  

Twist your fork in some spicy spaghetti from Rex’s Pasta, satisfy your sweet tooth with a stop on the Cortland County Ice Cream Trail, greet the sunrise with a poached benedict breakfast from The Exchange Restaurant, or have dinner and drinks with a view over the endearing streets of tiny Homer from the hospitable Dasher’s Corner Pub. Brew enthusiasts should make time for a visit to Homer Hops, where a compelling selection of craft beer lies in store alongside an expansive patio overlooking a lush meadow often hosting concerts in the warmer months.